Insulation Calculator
How many inches of insulation to add to your attic to reach the recommended R-value, counting what's already there.
R-value
- R-value to add
- 50
- Existing R-value (approx.)
- 10
- Target R-value
- 60
Depth and volume
- Total depth when done
- 17.5 in
- Volume to add
- 1,126 cu ft
How much attic insulation do I need?
ENERGY STAR recommends a total of about R60 for attics in most of the US (zones 4–8), R49 in warmer zones 2–3 and R30 in zone 1. Estimate your existing R-value (depth × about 2.5 per inch for loose fiberglass, 3.7 for cellulose), subtract it from the target, and divide by the new material's R per inch. With 4 in of loose fiberglass (R10) you need to add R50: about 13.5 in of blown cellulose.
Worked example: topping up a 1,000 sq ft attic
- What's there: 4 in of loose fiberglass × 2.5 = R10.
- Target: R60 for climate zones 4–8.
- To add: R60 − R10 = R50.
- Depth: blown cellulose gives about R3.7 per inch: 50 ÷ 3.7 = 13.5 in, for a total of 17.5 in.
- Volume: 1,000 sq ft × 13.5 in ÷ 12 = 1,126 cu ft. The bag label tells you how many bags cover your area at your target R-value.
Inches needed for an uninsulated attic
| Climate zone (target) | Blown cellulose | Blown fiberglass | Fiberglass batts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zone 1 (R30) | 8.1 in | 12 in | 9.4 in |
| Zones 2–3 (R49) | 13.2 in | 19.6 in | 15.3 in |
| Zones 4–8 (R60) | 16.2 in | 24 in | 18.8 in |
Using DOE's R per inch: cellulose 3.7, loose fiberglass 2.5, fiberglass batts 3.2. Products vary; the bag or batt label gives the exact R-value and depth.
Estimating your existing R-value
The Department of Energy's rule of thumb for insulation already in an attic:
- Loose fiberglass (light, fluffy, yellow, pink or white): depth × 2.5
- Rock wool (dense, gray or off-white, sometimes with black specks): depth × 2.8
- Cellulose (small gray pieces, like shredded newspaper): depth × 3.7
- Fiberglass batts (rolls or blankets): depth × 3.2
If you see shiny, pebble-like granules, that may be vermiculite, which can contain asbestos. Don't disturb it, and get it tested before working in the attic.
Before you insulate
- Air seal first. Seal gaps around light fixtures, pipes, wires, chimneys and the attic hatch; insulation doesn't stop air leaks.
- Keep vents clear. Use baffles at the eaves so insulation doesn't block soffit vents.
- Mind the clearances around chimneys, flues and recessed lights that aren't rated for contact with insulation.
- Read the bag chart. Blown insulation bags list the coverage at each R-value and the settled depth to aim for.
Frequently asked questions
How many inches of insulation do I need in my attic?
What R-value should attic insulation be?
What is the R-value of 6 inches of fiberglass?
Is cellulose or fiberglass better for an attic?
Can I put new insulation on top of old?
Guides
Related calculators
Sources and method
- U.S. DOE Building America — Energy Renovations: Insulation (Table 2.2) — R per inch: loose fiberglass 2.5, rock wool 2.8, cellulose 3.7, fiberglass batts 3.2
- ENERGY STAR — recommended home insulation R-values — attic targets by climate zone (2021 IECC)
Last checked October 12, 2026. How we build and test every calculator: methodology.